Wednesday, December 26, 2012

A Bittersweet Christmas in Buenos Aires


Merry Christmas everyone!  ¡Feliz Navidad! 

I have had a rollercoastery past few days (credits to Zach Erickson for the invented adjective), which I suppose should not surprise me considering the fact that the past few days entailed celebrating Christmas without my family for the first time in my life.  I experienced many moments of joy, gratitude and affection toward the people around me, but I also missed my family and Minnesota more than ever.
 On top of all this, I have felt (and still feel) painful empathy for a friend here in Buenos Aires who is suffering, and has suffered perhaps all his life from an almost deadly combination of sickness, poverty, neglect and abuse.  As if all of these unlucky cards weren’t enough, my friend also has a cognitive disability, which makes him extremely vulnerable when he walks around by himself in his rough neighborhood.  I don’t feel like I can ethically tell you more details about my friend, except for the fact that when I saw him on Sunday for the Christmas pageant, his health was the worst I had ever seen it.  It is so hard to accept that I am limited in what I can do for him; he has been on my mind a lot this week. So I ask that you please all pray for him. 
In other news, the weather seems to have joined me in my rollercoaster ride this week!  We had a hot and humid weekend, and then on Christmas Eve the heat and humidity reached almost unprecedented proportions.  This time it wasn’t just the Minnesotan girl complaining- everyone was wilting!  The temperature was about 100 F, but the “sensacion térmica” (heat sensation?) was 120 F! In other words, the humidity was so intense that it actually felt like 120!  Then, early Christmas morning (1:30), we had a brief thunderstorm.  After that, the temperature started to drop, and last night and today have been pleasantly cool (70s).  What a relief! 

I want to share with you the following events of the last week: The “amigos invisibles” party at my house, the Christmas workshop and Christmas pageant at Santo Sacramento, Christmas Eve with Pastor Angel and Chabela, and saying goodbye to Padre Dani. 

La Fiesta de Amigos Invisibles (The Secret Santa Party)

Last Friday, some of the residents in my house got together for a little Christmas Party.  We had each drawn someone else’s name from a hat and came to the party with our gifts ready.  We enjoyed a lovely dinner, to which I contributed the smoked salmon that my Aunt Sue sent me from Vancouver Island (thanks Sue!!) and some Christmas cookies that I made at the last minute.  Afterward, we received our gifts and guessed who our “invisible friend” had been and played a silly game.  This silly game was akin to musical chairs, except that we were passing around a bag full of clothing, and whenever the music stopped (which happened to be Abba- classic!), the person holding the bag had to take something out of the bag and put it on.  By the end of the game we were all substantially clothed in horribly mismatched clothing articles.  See for yourself!


Valentina, Lisa Fernandez, Myriam, Emilia, me and Cristina!

El Taller De Navidad y El Pesebre Viviente- The Christmas Workshop and the Nativity Play

            On Thursday, Friday and Saturday afternoon, some of the Santo Sacramento kids and youth participated in the annual Christmas workshop, which involves rehearsing the Christmas pageant and other Christmasy activities.  With my small group of little girls, we primarily colored sheets illustrating the nativity, played with a play-mobile nativity set, and goofed around on the patio while waiting our turn to dance around as angels.  Although there were only three girls in my group for the workshop, about ten more came on Sunday for the pageant itself!  Here we are, dancing around joyfully:


 The whole group at the finale



Two angel sisters, Aymara and Camila

 And their angel mommy, Cecilia!

            I was technically supposed to be leading this group of angels, but I felt pretty lost the whole time!  Luckily Cristina was there to push me forward when our cue came to unleash the dancing.  Afterward I helped Cristina distribute Christmas gifts and candy to each of the kids and youth present, and then we shared a brindis (toasting) with cider and pan dulce (think julekake only in the shape of a chef’s hat and of Italian instead of Norwegian).  Pan dulce is a very typical Christmas food in Argentina.  Here it is, in all its glory:



La Nochebuena- Christmas Eve

            At 6 pm, Pastor Angel delivered the Christmas Eve service at Santo Sacramento.  We sang two Christmas melodies that are very familiar to me, but of course this time I sang them in a different language: “Silent Night” (Noche de Paz) and “O Come all Ye Faithful” (Venid Fieles Todos).  I could barely get through these songs without crying because of how strongly I associate them with the St. Olaf Christmas Festival, the annual youth Christmas concert at Mayflower Church, and singing Christmas carols with my family on the ride home from Grandma’s house on Christmas Eve.  The wilting effect of the heat didn’t help. 
            Pastor Angel delivered a moving sermon reminding us of the true meaning of Christmas (when I write it it sounds cheesy, but I promise that his sermon was not cheesy!).  The gist of the sermon was that even without the parties, food, and gifts, Christmas is still Christmas, and that Christ, rather than appearing to us in glamorous manifestations in ornate cathedrals, is most present in humbler settings, among the people who suffer most.   
         Angel showed us two treasures to illustrate his point.  A wooden chalice (the cup used in communion) made somewhere in southern Africa (he didn’t specify) in a community heavily affected by HIV/AIDS, and a small stain-glass depiction of the nativity scene made out of glass shards left by the bombings in Palestine.  He spoke about how Christ’s love and hope had manifested itself in these two afflicted communities, and to bring the message a bit closer to home, he also mentioned the friend I told you about at the beginning of this blog post who has been sick.  Basically, Angel’s point was that there was nothing wrong with enjoying a good meal with family and shooting off fireworks to celebrate Christmas, but in the end, Christ’s true place is with the poor; he was born to walk with them. 
            After the service, I went to Angel and Chabela’s house for the Christmas Eve dinner, which did not commence until 10:30!  Beforehand, I called my family on skype!  They were all gathered at my Grandma’s house, so I was able to see and greet my parents, brother, grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins!  It was so much fun- almost like I was there!
By the time we sat down for dinner, I was pretty hungry, and luckily, there was lots of nummy food to more than satisfy my hunger.  Chicken, pork, beef, sausage (so much meat!!) something similar to potato salad, lentil salad and lettuce and tomato salad.  Uffda!  For dessert we had more of the famous pan dulce I told you about, and I finally got to try a Christmas sweet that I had been intrigued about for some time: MANTECOL . . .



Mantecol is made with peanut butter, sugar and undoubtedly many other ingredients, and to me it tastes similar to the filling of a butterfinger candy bar, but with more of a peanut butter taste and a little less crunchy.  It’s really hard to explain, which is why I was so intrigued by it- I simply could not imagine what it would taste like.  But according to the ads, “it’s not Christmas without mantecol” (Angel would beg to disagree) so I knew I would end up trying it at some point.  Mantecol is an Argentine brand of turron, and turron is a category of dense Spanish and Italian sweets that may be made primarily of a nut paste or may consist of honey, sugar and egg whites cooked together with pieces of nuts and fruits mixed in.  All turrones come in bar form.  Everyone was really surprised when I told them I had never tried turron before!  The closest thing to turron in the US is probably peanut brittle, but peanut brittle is much much harder than turron.  
 Here are some more examples of turrones:



To bring a little bit of Minnesota to the table, I contributed a batch of cookies using a recipe from the Star Tribune contest from a few years ago: cardamom cookies.  Except that I couldn’t find cardamom, so I made them with cinnamon instead.  Yum!
         At midnight, Chabela, Xiomara and I watched the fireworks from the terrace.  It felt more like the fourth of July than Christmas to me!  I ended the night with a quick dip in Chabela’s small pool, joined by the dog and the daughter of Chabela’s god-daughter, Tatiana, who is just four years old.  This may well be the first and last time that I go swimming on Christmas Eve!


Saying Goodbye to Padre Dani

            On Saturday night, El Arca hosted a farewell party for Padre Dani.  It began with a mass focused both on Dani’s departure and on the 9th anniversary of El Arca Argentina (Sandra, the first El Arca resident, arrived on December 22nd, 2003).  After mass, a variety show of sorts ensued consisting of songs, skits, and gifts dedicated to Dani, some of which involved Dani himself.  Maxi and I opened the show by serenading Dani with a song he himself wrote called “Sweet Maria.”  The song is a farewell song that Dani dedicated to a friend a long time ago.  Maxi and I were a smashing hit, if I do say so myself, and we were totally styling in our matching vests. 
            On Christmas day, I saw Padre Dani again when I came to El Arca.  When I arrived, he was showing a selection of photos from his three years with El Arca Argentina to a small audience.  After most of the visitors had left, Maxi, Marcos, Sandra, Osvaldo, Romina, Dani Guerrero and I joined Padre Dani for a send-off prayer.  Needless to say, we all got a little teary, especially the acogidos (residents).  We wished Dani goodbye, he left to spend the night somewhere else, and this morning, he departed for France.  We will miss you Dani!!!


I'll say goodbye with one more photo: all of the Christmas cards I received from people within and outside of Argentina.  I really appreciate them!!


I can't figure out how to rotate the photo . . .







Friday, December 14, 2012

A Festive and Hot Advent



      Greetings and happy advent!  True to the season, I have hung up an advent calendar in my classroom at Santo Sacramento, and the characteristic crown of advent candles has been displayed in the Santo Sacramento sanctuary and in the humble living room of the El Arca home.  In both volunteer placements, we are preparing for Christmas by doing Christmas crafts (ornaments, mostly), and students of all ages in my communities are eagerly making plans for their imminent summer vacation. 
            That’s right, summer.  A time of year that we Minnesotans associate with skiing, ice skating, and sipping hot chocolate in front of a fire is for Argentineans a time for camping, going to the beach, and soaking up sun.  My Minnesotan mind is seriously struggling to grasp this concept.  As we count down the days until Christmas, the weather here gets hotter and more humid, which sometimes makes me forget that we are in the month of December.  It will certainly be difficult to celebrate Christmas so far away from my family and home, but I also feel blessed to have the opportunity to experience the festivities immersed in another culture and surrounded by my new friends. 
            It has been a few weeks since I last wrote, so I have a lot to tell you about!  Most of all, I want to tell you about celebrations.

¡Tantas Celebraciones!  (So many celebrations!) 

            During the past few weeks, I have been a part of many birthday celebrations.  On November 14th, Dani G. celebrated his 50th birthday with the El Arca community!  Dani has been with El Arca Argentina since the workshop’s doors opened nine years ago, so it was special for the community to celebrate another, monumental birthday with him!  He is truly an integral piece in the El Arca puzzle.  Here are some photos:


Dani (back towards us) receives a birthday hug from his good friend Osvaldo.  One's a "hincha" (fan) of River, the other an hincha de Boca, but they don't let their differences keep them apart.





 Dani blows out his candle with Barbi and Rocio (a volunteer) looking on.

On November 17th, my dear mother, Sue Ann Rawlins, celebrated her 54th birthday.  The day before, a Friday, I called her on skype after lunch at El Arca so that everyone could wish her a happy birthday.  We sang happy birthday in Spanish and English, and I clumsily translated back and forth as my friends from El Arca tried to talk with her.  I can’t wait for her (and Dad and David!!) to meet them in real life in March!

On Thanksgiving, while I was in Uruguay, I unfortunately missed Dani the French Priest’s birthday celebration (not to be confused with Dani G, who also had a birthday).  By the time I had returned, he had left for a one month stay in a villa (very poor neighborhood) where he is working as a priest.  On the 22nd there will be a farewell party for him, he will spend Christmas at the home, and then on the 26th he returns to his homeland after three years of dedicated service at El Arca Argentina.  We already miss him, especially the people who live in the home, who had a very close relationship with him.  At Maxi’s request, Maxi and I are practicing a song that we will perform at the farewell party.  It’s an original song of Dani’s former band, “Dragon’s Dream”, which although made up of Frenchmen, sings in English. 

It has been difficult both emotionally and logistically (now there is only one assistant who lives in the home) for the community to adjust to Dani’s absence, but we are managing, and it is probable that a new assistant from Colombia will come in January.  In the meantime, every night someone has to spend the night along with Romina, so I have been doing so at least once a week.  It has been interesting to be a part of a routine in the home (evening prayer, dinner, bedtime) that was previously a mystery to me. 

Since my return from Uruguay, we have celebrated two more birthdays at El Arca.  On December 1st, Barbi, the director of the El Arca workshop, turned 32!  Maxi and his occupational therapist Maria Jose worked together to create one of the most beautiful birthday cakes I have ever seen.  They used a special kind of frosting that you can mold, and the finished product looked like it was covered in clay or play-doh.  The texture reminded me of marzipan, but it didn’t have almonds in it.  Here it is:





Barbi receives her cake from Maxi, with some hesitation . . .


  . . . . and makes her birthday wish! (Luis, Dani G., Maxi, and Julio look on)

Later that week, we celebrated the 50th birthday of Claudia, an El Arca volunteer.  While she’s not volunteering, she acts!  For the most part her passion and expertise is theater, but she recently played a small role in an apocalyptic film that will premier sometime next year, and she is also featured in this music video (she plays the woman in the blue dress and rosary with the gambling problem).  Our friend is famous!


The Sunday after I returned from Uruguay, we celebrated all of the November birthdays at Santo Sacramento with the traditional cake and birthday song, and this Saturday, I am attending one of the Santo Sacramento teen’s birthday/graduation party!  I’m looking forward to it!

El Casamiento ~ The Wedding

In addition to all of these birthdays, I had the great honor of attending Ayelen and Daniel’s wedding this past weekend.  I met Ayelen and Daniel during my first week in Argentina when my fellow YAGMS and I attended a church service at Krystle’s church in Belgrano, a neighborhood in the capital.  Ayelen and I kept talking on facebook and started to meet up with each other on the weekends to chat and eat delicious food! 

Here in Argentina, a couple needs to have a civil ceremony in addition to a religious ceremony in order for their marriage to be legal.  Of course, a couple could choose to only do a civil ceremony, but Ayelen and Daniel chose to do both.  The civil ceremony took place at a “registro civil” on the same day as 5 other ceremonies!  Before we were able to enter, we watched several other couples emerge from the building, greeted by cheering friends and family members who threw rice at them mercilessly.  It was amusing to watch the hovering pigeons waiting to take advantage of the situation- they perched on the awning above and flew down one by one as if they were diving into a synchronized swimming routine.  It worried me, though, because I’ve heard that raw rice is bad for birds. 

I was surprised to see that one of the couples getting married that day was a lesbian couple!  As a supporter of GLBT rights, I was happy to see their right to this symbolically and legally important covenant granted.  I was also surprised when I learned about a month ago that same-sex marriage is legal throughout Argentina!  In many ways Argentina is socially more liberal than the United States- another surprise for me.  For some reason, before arriving in August I had the preconceived notion that Argentina was a relatively conservative, Catholic country.  In reality, Argentine society is fairly liberal and secular. 

Ayelen and Daniel’s civil ceremony was brief.  The judge explained their marriage rights, asked them if they accepted each other as man and wife, and then asked them and their two witnesses to sign.  And then afterwards we too threw rice.  The church ceremony the next day was more poetic.  Ayelen and Daniel gave their wedding a few signature touches, such as serving communion to their guests and asking Krystle and me to light candles for them and speak out loud our wishes for their marriage.  After the ceremony, there was a party at Ayelen’s parents’ house.  Her parents had laid out a red carpet bordered with lit candles for the couple’s entrance, and when they arrived they were greeted with confetti!  The night unfolded with delicious catered food and dancing.  Before I knew it, it was 2 am, and they still hadn’t cut the wedding cake!   


Before . . .


 . . . and after!  With rice and all!



Los novios have arrived at the party!!


There they are!


The wedding cake

Wow, that was a lot of celebrating!  Uffda!  I'm now going to transition into a different topic, but I'm afraid I can't come up with a smooth, clever, or logical way to do so. 

ANIMALS!

If you know me well, you probably know that I love animals, especially dogs.  For this reason, I was so excited to learn that the El Arca home had a dog!  Mia is so affectionate, but because of Maxi’s allergies, she unfortunately cannot enter the house.  The poor thing gets so disappointed when we leave her outside.  In addition to being a faithful companion to the community, Mia has served as our doorbell ever since the doorbell stopped working about a month ago.  For some reason, I do not have a photo of Mia!  I will have to correct that soon, and then I will share it with you.  

Unfortunately, there are a lot of stray dogs in Argentina, which breaks my heart.  But sometimes not even having an owner can guarantee a decent standard of living.  For example, every day on my walk to the bus stop after El Arca, I pass a house with a dog who is constantly lying down in the yard.  It has such a glum expression on its face and is terribly skinny.  I have tried to communicate with it, but it seems really apathetic.  My interpretation is that it is so depressed that it has become numb, thus reacting to everything with apathy.  The other day I decided to do something about it.  I bought a kilo of dog food and started giving it handfuls when I could.  I also published a photo of the dog on a humane society-type page on facebook called “Amores Perros Argentina.”  They will decide if an intervention would be appropriate.  To me it’s clear that this dog is being neglected.  Either that or it has some serious health problem.  But I guess I’m not a veterinarian. 

Speaking of health problems . . .

NO ONE LIKES BEING SICK :-(

On Tuesday I got really sick for the first time in Argentina.  I had a nasty stomach flu, but luckily I have recovered pretty quickly!  I am so grateful for Cristina, the director of the residence, and Xiomara, my neighbor and friend, who spoiled me in my ill health.  They made it less lonely to be sick away from home.

After two days of resting, I was anxious to return to El Arca!  When I did return, everyone acted as though I had been gone for years!  Everyone told me how much they had missed me and that they had worried about me and gave me huge bear hugs.  It was the most amazing feeling to receive so much love.  I wondered what I had done to deserve it, but then I realized that true love isn’t about “deserving,” true love is unconditional.

I think this is a perfect example of the seemingly limitless capacity that people with disabilities have for love.  They love more easily and more deeply than “normal” people.  They don’t make judgments, assign labels, or hold grudges the way “normal” people do.  In fact, Jesus would probably say that their way of loving is a model for true Christian love.  They remind me of the bible verse that Ayelen and Daniel featured in their wedding:

“Love is patient and kind; Love is not jealous or boastful; it is not arrogant or rude. Love does not insist on its own way; it is not irritable or resentful; it does not rejoice at wrong, but rejoices in the right. Love bears all things, believes all things, hopes all things, endures all things” (1 Corinthians 13:4-7).

In a scary world afflicted by senseless violence (today’s nightmarish school shooting in Connecticut for example), pernicious diseases, discrimination and oppression, the positive vibes flowing through El Arca give me hope.  The people of El Arca challenge me to follow by their example, to love fully and unconditionally, to forgive, and to have faith.  

And with that, I say goodbye for now.  May your holidays be full of peace, joy and love!

Lisa